A short way into the countryside, some fascinating primitive technology can be seen. Take bus no. K35 for ¥1 (15¢) to the east and alight at the Hutian stop shortly before the terminus where the bus swings right; walk on for 2.5km (1 1/2 miles), or take a taxi. The route leads past shuttered factories and smokeless chimneys peeping from among the green hills. Those few premises still in operation seem to be making saggars rather than finer material, but large trucks still pass, brimful of white clay. The shuidui can be heard before they are seen, an irregular solid clunking from beneath a thatched hut to the left. Just past it, follow a path that crosses a stream and then swings around to the left to the hut. Inside, four giant wooden mallets with long heads and pointed noses, ingeniously driven by a small water wheel and among the last of their kind, pound soggy masses of clay.